I suggest measuring both the top and bottom of each row so you can confirm whether a 90 degree cut is appropriate for the last tile cut. ![]() Then simply measure horizontally along the lines you just drew, to calculate the measurements for the last tile cut (don’t forget the grout lines). To do this properly, all you need is a 2′ – 3′ spirit level and pencil/ Sharpie to draw horizontal lines on these walls, lining up with the grout lines on the back wall tiles. However in any shower tile installation, I really don’t think it’s ever wise to cut the side wall tiles on the fly.Ĭareful and accurate tile measuring and cutting is important in every shower tile installation. The back wall tiles are much easier and less stressful than the side walls because rough-cut tile edges will be covered by the side wall tiles.įor this reason you can get away with cutting the third and higher rows on the fly if you absolutely refuse to cut all the tiles beforehand □ Personally, I try to cut all the rows to length before mixing any mortar. You will always be better off and have a less stressful experience, if you pre cut as many rows as you can before you start laying tile on this wall. You won’t regret spending some extra time on this because the spacing, levelling and alignment of all the rest of your tile work on the shower wall surround will depend on this. This will sometimes require a creative use of shims against the shower base to get this row just right, since most shower bases will not be perfectly flat or straight along this edge. That means that cutting and dry fitting at least the first couple of rows is super important before you start laying your tile. When installing these all important back wall tiles, the bottom rows must be solid and straight, if you want all the rest of your rows to line up. ![]() The screws are removed the next day when the adhesive dries.įor a more detailed account of this procedure, refer to my post on Tile Edge Trim – How to Choose It and Install It (Updated). Then simply glue them in place using a tiny amount of polyurethane adhesive every 6″ or so along the trim.įurther secure the trim to the wall with 6-8 wafer head screws to allow the trims to follow the undulations in the wall (as long as they are not too severe). Then, you can mark your new trim position, temporarily attach the trim and dry fit the first row of tiles to see if it all works out.ĭraw a vertical pencil line on both side walls of your shower enclosure where you’ve chosen to mount your trims. If you’re lucky, you can adjust the trim position so no tile cuts are needed. Then lay out a row of shower wall tiles on the floor (with spacers), until you reach slightly beyond this measurement without using any cut tiles. The best way to determine the placement of your trim is to measure how far out the shower base (or shower pan)comes out from the back wall.
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